Updated Surplus Numbers

Updated Surplus Numbers
Updated Surplus Numbers: Actual surplus 2018 per audit was $85,163.
Boards 2011-2018 implemented policies and procedures with specific goals:
stabilize owner fees, achieve maintenance objectives and achieve annual budget surpluses.
Any surplus was retained by the association.
The board elected in fall 2018 decided to increase owner fees, even in view of a large potential surplus

Average fees prior to 2019

Average fees prior to 2019
Average fees per owner prior to 2019:
RED indicates the consequences had boards continued the fee policies prior to 2010,
BLUE indicates actual fees. These moderated when better policies and financial controls were put in place by boards

Better budgeting could have resulted in lower fees

Better budgeting could have resulted in lower fees
Better budgeting could have resulted in lower fees:
RED line = actual fees enacted by boards,
BLUE line = alternate, fees, ultimately lower with same association income lower had
boards used better financial controls and focused on long term fee stability
Showing posts with label Garage Issues. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Garage Issues. Show all posts

Friday, November 12, 2021

Garage floor and Driveway Surveys

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Driveway and Garage Survey Spreadsheet

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A number of surveys of the property were made each year. The above is a summary of two surveys conducted in 2017. There were other surveys, including entries, streams, decks, gazebo, streets, brick sills, etc.

The garage and driveway survey of 2017 was conducted  by our manager, our Maintenance Director who is a member of the Board, and by myself.   I took notes during the survey and consolidated these into a spreadsheet. 

For the annual meeting held in 2018 I provided the following to owners, on a large screen, using my projector and laptop. That was my final meeting as a board member:








(c) N. Retzke 2021









Monday, April 11, 2011

Fees Revisited, Spring Cleaning and Marketing, etc.

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The board has taken a change in direction, and our president has reconsidered the issue of marketing our association. Our president brought this up at the last association meeting. As a consequence, our CD is now working on a sales brochure. To assist her in that endeavor, I sent her a link to a nearby association in an email entitled "What the Competition is Doing."

It's my view that this is not so much about "sales" as it is about marketing our association in a very competitive environment. Our condos are priced in the lowest 25% of all real estate in Wheaton. There's a lot of competition at the low end.

Management and I recently inspected the physical condition of each of the garages as part of an ongoing effort to quantify the finances of the association. While doing so we discovered that about 1/3 of the garages were in violation of current rules, with "stuff" stored in them. It's an expense for owner's to pay to have this hauled; currently a garbage sticker is $3.19 (going up to $3.33 on July 1) and a special pickup is $22 per cubic yard. There are dimensional and weight restrictions for normal trash pickup.

This prompted me to suggest to the board that we (the board) consider a "Spring Cleaning" event at BLMH, and also consider providing a dumpster to assist owners and tenants in their effort to clean the garages. I had discussed this with management last year, and wrote a piece in this blog. According to management, other association(s) in the area do this. So far, the LD and Treasurer have responded positively about the dumpster. Our CD is planning a newsletter notice or article, but avoided the topic of the dumpster. The president and R&R director did not respond.

The subject of fees is again surfacing. One of our retirees stopped me to ask if I am currently employed and I replied "yes." He then stated that he isn't, and doesn't have the luxury of an income beyond Social Security and a Pension. I always wonder why it is that some retirees think that "working" is such a benefit. If it was, wouldn't we all be doing that?

It might be desirable to get a  job at Ace Hardware, McDonald's or any of a number of other local businesses that are hiring part time. There are limits, of course.  I had an aunt who worked at a cellular telephone store part time until she was 85. She finally did permanently retire, but lamented not going to work! I had another female relative who worked for a bank well into retirement. Another relative is currently working as a painter at 83. Another retired couple, in their early 80's, currently maintain three residential properties, consisting of two apartment buildings and a two flat, with adjoining grounds. They tell me it's a lot of work; they do most of the maintenance and all of the cleaning and grounds work themselves! So, it seems that there are exceptions to any rule. With relatives like these, it will difficult to take an early retirement, let's say at 66. I'm sure they'll chide me for quitting early.

Returning to the issue of fees, I received an email a while ago from an owner who asked about the fees at BLMH. He asked some questions and his email was well written. He included a selected list of townhomes and condominiums in the western suburbs, with average monthly fees of $169 and a maximum of $197. There was a question posed about getting our fees "in line" with these other associations. I sent a reply to him and to our president, and later copied the remained of the board with some additional comments on the issue.

Here’s my opinion on fees and comparing BLMH to other HOA’s, based on that email. This is drawn from my email reply and the notes to the board:

Our association does have higher costs than some of the competitors.

When comparing properties there are some differences to be aware of. First, if they aren’t a PUD, then those associations have no responsibilities for street repairs, water mains, street lighting or snow removal beyond driveways. I have also been made aware of some associations which pass on certain costs and responsibilities to the owners; for example, the maintaining of patios, dryer vents, etc. Second, many of the HOA’s which some of our owners like to compare to BLMH, have no lakes or streams and limited grounds and landscaping. So monies we are paying each month in our fees for these items are not required at many other condominiums, because they don’t have these items to maintain.

I am also aware of condos in the area which have recently had special assessments, some of which were thousands of dollars. We have not.

Financially, I think owners can better handle fees without special assessments. For example, a special assessment for certain basic reserve items, such as for a roof, would require a surcharge fee of about $190 per month, per owner for 3 years at 5% interest. That could then be followed by a special assessment for driveways, etc. If an association were to use this approach, it would result in a lower base monthly fee.

However, the total of fees for operations and maintenance, plus fees for other reserves plus special assessments would result in a high monthly overall fee. Of course, if an owner could sell before that assessment came due, perhaps he/she could escape and pass the burden to a new owner. I sometimes think that could be the agenda of some owners. However once any special fee is levied, it would not be possible to sell one's unit until it was paid.

I suppose it would be possible for an association such as ours to 1) Remove some expensive items such as roofs from the monthly fee for reserves; and 2) Levy a special assessment for roofs. If we were to use this approach, then monthly fees, using what is actually a "slight of hand" would appear to decrease. Each owner statement would have a fee plus assessment. For owners, that would have a very serious consequence. All special assessments would have to be paid before a sale was possible.

Personally, I would prefer lower fees, no matter what the going rate might be. I’m acting as a fiduciary and so in some ways, my personal opinion or feelings does not matter. Nor can I operate for personal gain in these matters.

That is not to say that there is no room for improvement. There are restrictions. The Illinois Condominium Act requires that the board act as fiduciaries and maintain the property while doing so. We have no legal option of simply stopping the maintenance of the property. We can however, adjust how moneys are spent while maintaining BLMH, and we are striving to do more, in my opinion. The ICA aside, I've been cautioned by professionals and the CAI about the risks halting maintenance to provide a temporary and artificial reduction in fees.

I purchased here 10 years ago. At the time, I reviewed the finances of the association and was concerned by the reserves. The reserves have significantly improved since then, as the association built them up for roofing and driveway projects. My spouse and I purchased here because we liked the location (for example, COD very close and a park across the street, great South Wheaton location, etc.) as well as the extensive grounds and landscaping, and the general design of the buildings, which offered a reasonable compromise between home living and condo living. I had been a home owner previously and I was apprehensive about some of the aspects of “community” living in a HOA. (My apprehension has been confirmed by recent events at BLMH). However, we have stayed here for the same reasons that we purchased. I am aware of the differences between associations in the area. We looked at some of them but chose BLMH, and I have several acquaintances who live in condos or townhomes in the area, so over the past 10 years, we have traded stories.

To be candid, financial issues, including budgeting are at the top of my list here at BLMH, and so is marketing of our property. I am very concerned by the current combination of fee increases and the apparent deteriorating finances of some owners. I have other board duties and responsibilities that supersede or displace as much financial involvement as I would prefer. The discussions and information provided to owners last fall was the “tip of the iceberg” and the treasurer and I have been doing additional work. This includes improved monitoring of delinquencies and late fees, and ongoing discussions about expenditures, cash flow and funding. Our president is maintaining a separate spread sheet of expenditures. Management and I are currently in the process of reviewing the status of garages, and have prepared lists of buildings which are potential candidates for roofing in 2011. Currently, those building not yet re-roofed, have an average shingle age of 18 years.

The information gained from all of these efforts will be used to adjust the data I prepared for the board as part of my review of the reserves, and the reserve study. I intend, with the support and work of management and others on the board, to provide additional information on the state of reserves and funding of current and future projects. As our owners are aware, a significant amount of the fees collected are going to reserves. In the near future, the roofing and driveway projects will be completed.

I cannot state if fees can then be reduced, or annual increases reduced, as the association completes those projects. Last year's board authorized and selected a vendor to provide a reserve study. That study with the input of management, provides guidance to the current board and to future boards, until another study at additional cost replaces it.

Inflation is a reality, and the cost of basic services will and do increase over time. It will be necessary to begin rebuilding reserves again, for the next round of repairs. Nor can I predict the role of any material cost increases. I am monitoring the costs and would like to see such fee reduction. That may be in the hands of future boards. I can only deal with the present and plan and prepare for the future.

The board approved a nominal 1% fee increase for handling all Operations and Maintenance cost increases for 2011. What we know about true inflationary pressures, indicated that was a very aggressive minimization (core inflation as published by the Fed reduces or ignores the rising cost of fuel and food, which ultimately affects the costs of goods and services as well as the various projects here at BLMH). The board has taken other steps to either hold costs or reduce them, for the purpose of staying within budget and reducing fee increases. There has been discussions of “service cuts” and alterations to reduce landscaping fees. There will be more discussion. For example, the board has discussed and tentatively approved a change from a 5-year painting schedule to a 6-year schedule. That will ultimately reduce our annual exterior painting costs by 3.33% and management and I are also reviewing the painting specification and type of paint that is used, to see if we can achieve some savings with no loss in quality.

However, any failure to properly maintain the property will make it difficult to sell units here, I have been told by professionals, and that includes discussions during a workshop at the CAI in January. I realize the term “maintain properly” is somewhat ambiguous and subject to personal interpretation. Large potholes on Lakecliffe would seem to be pushing it. We can delay some types of repairs, but water in units, roofing or truss failure, drainage problems, a sinking building, street issues, broken water mains, a collapsing underground pump cistern, etc. would all seem to be in the category of requiring some immediacy. Would not everyone agree? We do have the reserve funds to properly address these problems.

On the other hand, I suppose an owner could take the position that if it “isn’t my roof” that is leaking, or my street with the potholes, then it isn’t all that serious. The Illinois Condominium Act also has stipulations for boards about property maintenance.

Discussions about reducing maintenance hours, or landscaping costs, must be accompanied by "how." What service is to be reduced, who is to coordinate the suggestions of board members and owners, read contracts and ultimately arbitrate the suggestions, revisions, and determine specific cost savings?



Comments, Corrections, Omissions, References
Note 1.  I've posted this because it will be several months before an article on this is in the newsletter, assuming one is approved. I am also preparing an article which breaks out some of our unusual fees, etc. so as to inform our owners. 

Monday, February 7, 2011

Electric Vehicles

7 comments
A Brief Overview
Comment: in response to several questions, I've added Notes 6 and 7, and made several minor additions.

Electric vehicles have arrived, and I do mean that literally! It's been reported that we have a visitor to our association, who drives an electric automobile and recharges it while here. Some vehicles are reputed to use little electricity. However, most of the full size vehicles with Li-ion batteries have stringent requirements for 120VAC  power with dedicated electrical outlets, and 240V charging stations.

Our association garages are not wired for this purpose, and the use of such electricity would be a donation by the association to the owner of the electric car; using association power to charge electric vehicles is the equivalent of providing free gasoline to certain residents or visitors. So, such use is restricted. (Note 1).   Attempting to charge an electric vehicle may also exceed the electrical capacity of the outlet in the garage; we have a single 15 amp service for the garage door openers, lighting and the outlets.

Some older electric cars, or electric conversions, use lead acid batteries, and require diminished charging rates, which means lower peak current but longer charge times.

So how much power are we talking about for the current generation of electric cars? Let's look at two vehicles, the Chevrolet Volt and the Nissan Leaf.

The Chevrolet Volt, according to the manufacturer, will require “12 or 14 gauge wiring via a grounded, dedicated, minimum 15 ampere 120VAC 3-prong outlet with GFCI protection.” It will use up to 15 amperes when charging. That’s a maximum of 1,800 watts of power, the equivalent of a good sized toaster oven, which may be running all night, or longer! According to GM, it is possible to charge the vehicle in “the reduced level mode….Reduced level mode allows a non-dedicated circuit to be used but increases the charging time.”

The second vehicle is the Nissan Leaf. According to the manufacturer, this vehicle has a 120V charging cycle, which will require 20 hours to completely charge the batteries of the vehicle. Nissan states “It will charge on a regular 110/120V 20-Amp dedicated outlet. This is considered a "trickle charge," which means it would charge at a slower rate.” The Nissan vehicle, to get the charging time to a reasonable “7 hours” will require a 220/240 volt 40 amp circuit for it’s “Charging Station.” That’s a lot of power; about 9,000 watts! Nissan has stated that the average cost of the installation of such a station will be $2,000.  Nissan states that charging of the vehicle can be controlled via cellphone!

Of course, any electricity used in charging the electric vehicle, is at a cost over and above the installation of any "charging station" or separately protected GFCI equipped outlet.

Currently, our garages do not include the necessary wiring. Of course, it could be possible for an owner to install the necessary wiring from their power panel to the garage, and install the necessary "charging stations", all at the cost of the owner. The issues, if any, for the association are currently under review.

What types of vehicles are we talking about?

Electric bicycles and scooters have been around for a few years. There are conversion kits for motorcycles and bicycles.  I investigated the options in 2005. Electric cars and plug-in hybrids are not only in development, they are here. GM, Nissan and Toyota are taking orders. Smaller vehicles, with top speeds of 25MPH such as the GEM are also available.

In the bicycle department, the top end is probably the M55 Beast, an electric bicycle that can go 75 miles at a maximum 40 MPH. It is to be unveiled at the "Top Marques Luxury Fair" in Monaco on April 14th to 17th, 2011. If the Beast is a bit expensive for you at about $35,000, there is always the Daemon, a relatively inexpensive $13,000.

Here's a brief summary of some of the electric cars that you will be able to purchase. This is not a complete list, and is in alphabetical order.

Chevrolet Volt
The Chevrolet Volt is a 4 door hatchback which is capable of a 400 mile range from a single charge because of it's backup gasoline engine. It is capable of a maximum speed of 100 MPH. GM has plans to produce up to 10,000 in 2011 with a cost of about $40,000.

Ford Focus Electric
Ford has announced an electric version of the Focus model, to be available in 2013.

Ford Transit Connect EV (Electric)
The Ford Transit Connect is an electric version of the Ford Transit van. It uses the Azure Force Drive electric powertrain with lithium-ion battery. It can achieve a range of 50-80 miles with a top speed of 75 MPH.

Lightning GT
The Lightning GT is a hand built electric car. It is very fast, with 0-60 MPH in less than 4 seconds, with a top speed of 130 MPH.

Mitsubishi iMiEV
The Mitsubishi iMiEV has a 100 mile range and top speed of 80 MPH. Mitsubishi expects to produce 5,000 units this year. This will be an expensive vehicle at about $50,000.

Nissan Leaf
The Nissan Leaf is a 4 door hatchback with a 100 mile range on a single charge. A full charge at 240V will take less than 8 hours. It can achieve a top speed of 90 MPH using an 80kW electric motor and an Li-ion battery pack. Prices start at about $28,000 and limited numbers are on sale now.

Peugeot iON
This is based on the iMiEV from Mitsubishi. It has range of 80 miles but offers a very fast recharge time.

Tesla Roadster
The Tesla Roadster is a two door sports car. It has a range of 220 miles and a top speed of 125 MPH. Acceleration is 0-60 MPH in under 4 seconds. The Tesla is on sale with base price of $109,000.

Toyota Prius PHV PlugIn
The Prius Plug-in (Prius PHV) is currently available in a demonstration program, with sales commencing 2012. It is a combination electric and hybrid, gasoline powered vehicle. It can go 13 miles in electric-only mode on a single charge. Longer distances are achieved with the hybrid electric-gasoline drive.

Are Electric Cars Really "Zero Pollution Vehicles?"
This is a somewhat delicate area of discussion. Electric vehicles do not emit the carbon dioxide or water vapor and other by-products of combustion, unless they include a secondary gasoline engine. However, all electric vehicles require energy, and the source of that energy is the electricity used to recharge the vehicle batteries. What is the source of electricity? It is a fact that about 66% of all of the electrical power generated in the U.S. east of the Mississippi river, is produced by coal burning electrical power plants.

The only way an electric vehicle could be truly a "zero pollution vehicle" under current definitions, is if the electrical power were generated by so called "green" or clean methods, such as "wind power" or "solar power."

However, it is important to keep in mind that electric vehicles, just as is true with any other "vehicle," requires a significant manufacturing infrastructure, and that includes mining, metallurgy and chemical facilities. It takes some serious manufacturing to produce the batteries used in electric vehicles. The most popular of these, at present, seem to be the Li-Ion batteries, which provide the necessary capacity to get the range of the vehicle to acceptable limits. GM has done considerable research on this, as have other automobile manufacturers.

Many types of batteries include toxic metals such as cadmium. The metals in lithium ion batteries are reputed to include cobalt, copper, nickel and iron. These are currently considered as safe for disposal via landfills or incinerators. I understand the lithium ion batteries contain an ionic form of lithium but no lithium metal. Europeans have a more stringent view of the disposal of these different types of batteries because there is always the potential for contamination to water and these batteries do contain metals.

Comments, Corrections, Omissions, References
Note 1.  Our association included this statement in the January Newsletter:
"Restrictions to Electricity in Garages - For safety, any use should ONLY be with a proper GFCI (ground fault protector) equipped extension cord. All electricity used in the garages is paid for by the association and is metered separately. The cost is shared by owners and is paid by your monthly fees. A single 15 Amp circuit powers many garages. For these reasons and because of the limitations to the available power and wiring, use is restricted. Any owner contemplating the purchase or use of an electric vehicle, of any type, must contact Management for guidance, and must not use the outlets in the garages for charging that vehicle. Proper guidelines will be developed as more is known about the different vehicular and government requirements."

Note 2. This is a summary. If you want specifics, I suggest you visit a dealer. 

Note 3.  This includes some information originally researched and presented to our board on December 22, 2010.

Note 4. I won't get involved in the debate about the merits, or failings of electric vehicles. I would hope that anyone considering a vehicle such as an electric car, does a lot of research, including electrical power charging requirements, actual operating costs, warranty and disposal issues. 

Note 5. If you are curious how I calculated the wattage required in the above, here's several formulas. For our electric car example, use single phase power:
For single phase power (hot, neutral and ground) the formula is:
Volts x Amperes = Watts.

For two phase power,  the formula is:
Volts x Amperes x Power Factor x 2 = Watts.

For three phase power, the formula is:
Volts x Amperes x Power Factor x 1.732 = Watts.

Note 6. This note added February 8, in response to question posed by a reader. "How much will it cost me to recharge an electric car, such as the Nissan Leaf?" Answer: To answer that question, will require some additional information, such as the cost per kilowatt hour (KWH) for electricity. It also requires making some other assumptions, including how much electricity is actually used during the entire charging cycle. I don't know that, so I will use a constant energy use of 9,000 watts; this may not be true. For the cost of electricity, I'll use the EIA figures for Illinois, which is a cost of 11.57 cents per KWH.

Here's the formula used to calculate the recharge cost:
watts x hours used ÷ 1000 x price per KWH = cost of electricity

If we use Nissan's numbers, which is 7 hours for a complete recharge, and if we assume a constant 9000 watts during the recharge period, or cycle, we arrive at this estimate:

9000 x 7 ÷ 1000 x 11.57 cents = $7.29 for a complete recharge.

The above is only an estimate. For more accurate information, consult a dealer. 

Note 7: Here is some additional information on calculating electrical energy costs. How much would it cost to leave 100 watt light bulb "on" for an entire year? Here's the answer, in three steps:


100 Watts x 24 hours per day x 365 days per year = 876,000 Watt-hours (Wh).


876,000 Wh ÷ 1000 = 876 Kilowatt-hours (kWh).


876 kWh x 11.57 cents = $101.35 to leave that light on for an entire year. 




Sunday, August 15, 2010

Mulching and Water Run-Off Problems

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Here's a video which is an example of some of the water flow and drainage issues, which are compounded when mulch is used as fill. Mulch in itself is not a problem. However, if mulch is used to fill "low spots" then what you see in this video is the result.

When there are low spots filled with mulch, rainfall will wash away some of the mulch or re-distribute it, because the mulch is lighter than water and will float. The mulch then flows with the water downhill, and will create multiple dams, which further impede or prevent the proper run-off of water.

Water always flows downhill. In the example, the water found it's way into the garage and then to the driveway. Due to the nature of the garage floor, there is about one-half inch of standing water in some parts of the garage. Most but not all of the water flowed out of the garage and onto the driveway. Some water was left standing.

How to solve this problem? Add fill to properly elevate the low areas and if necessary, sculpt the landscape to avoid low areas, instead of filling the low areas with mulch.

I have sent a link of this video and blog to various members of the Board of Managers of our Association. Specifically in an email to our board president:


Hi [Madame President],

Here is a video of standing water and runoff problems along the side of the garage at [nnnn] Harrow Court. The water enters the garage during most rainstorms. This is due to an opening in the wall of the garage and the low area along the garage, which has been filled with mulch. With the recent mulch addition, the problem is aggravated.


I think this highlights one of the possible problems that can result, when mulch is used as fill.


Please forward this to other board members, for their information and action.


I will also send a copy of this email to management.



The following video does include an audio commentary. You may find it necessary to increase the volume on your PC  audio and also the audio control embedded in the video.




Comments, Corrections, Omissions, References
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1. The specific address was removed from this post.